Melasma

Pigmentary ICD: L81.1

Also known as: Chloasma, Mask of Pregnancy

Description

Melasma is an acquired pigmentary disorder characterised by symmetric brown to grey-brown patches on sun-exposed areas of the face. It is particularly common in women of reproductive age and in Fitzpatrick skin types III–V. UV exposure and hormonal factors (pregnancy, oral contraceptives) are key triggers.

Symptoms

  • Symmetric brown or grey-brown macules and patches
  • Most common on cheeks, forehead, upper lip, chin
  • Worsens with sun exposure
  • No associated itching or pain
  • Significant cosmetic and psychosocial impact

Causes & Triggers

  • UV radiation (primary trigger)
  • Hormonal influences (oestrogen, progesterone)
  • Genetic predisposition
  • Visible light and heat exposure
  • Certain medications (phototoxic drugs)

Severity Classification

Epidermal Brown patches — responds better to topical therapy
Dermal Grey-blue patches — deeper pigment, more resistant
Mixed Combination of epidermal and dermal — most common type

Treatment Ladder

  1. 1 Foundational: Strict broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 50+) + visible light protection
  2. 2 First-line: Triple combination cream (hydroquinone + tretinoin + steroid)
  3. 3 Alternatives: Azelaic acid 15–20% or tranexamic acid (oral/topical)
  4. 4 Adjuncts: Vitamin C, niacinamide, glycolic acid peels
  5. 5 Refractory: Chemical peels, microneedling, or laser (with caution in darker skin)

Relevant Compounds

Acetyl Glucosamine

Tyrosinase glycosylation inhibitor — reduces melanin synthesis through a unique mechanism, especially effective in combination with niacinamide (4% NAG + 5% niacinamide)

Acetyl glucosamine (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, NAG) is an amino sugar and the acetylated form of glucos…

Alpha Arbutin

Tyrosinase inhibitor for gradual depigmentation

Alpha arbutin is a biosynthetic glycosylated hydroquinone derivative that inhibits melanin productio…

Avobenzone

UVA protection critical — UVA1 is a major trigger for melanocyte activation and melasma exacerbation

Avobenzone is an oil-soluble dibenzoylmethane derivative and the most widely used organic UVA1 filte…

Azelaic Acid

Tyrosinase inhibitor — depigmenting with anti-inflammatory action

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid produced by Malassezia furfur. It has antiba…

Bakuchiol

Depigmenting agent — inhibits tyrosinase and modulates melanogenesis-related gene expression

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene (terpenoid phenol) isolated from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylif…

Coenzyme Q10

Antioxidant — supports cell renewal

Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) is a naturally occurring lipid-soluble benzoquinone that is present in vir…

Ferulic Acid

Anti-pigmentation adjunct — inhibits tyrosinase activity and UV-induced melanogenesis, stabilizes vitamin C in depigmenting formulations

Ferulic acid is a plant-derived phenolic compound abundant in cell walls of grains, fruits, and vege…

Glycolic Acid

Superficial peeling agent — enhances penetration of depigmenting agents

Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid with the greatest bioavailability due to its low mo…

Kojic Acid

Copper chelation to inhibit tyrosinase

Kojic acid is a natural metabolite produced by several species of fungi (Aspergillus, Penicillium). …

Lactic Acid

Depigmenting agent — inhibits tyrosinase and promotes turnover of melanin-laden keratinocytes

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with a larger molecular weight (90.08 Da) than glycolic a…

Niacinamide

Inhibits melanosome transfer to keratinocytes

Niacinamide is the physiologically active amide form of vitamin B3. It is a versatile, well-tolerate…

Retinol

Milder retinoid for maintenance therapy

Retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid and a precursor to retinoic acid (tretinoin). It must be con…

Tretinoin

Accelerates epidermal turnover and disperses melanin

Tretinoin is a first-generation retinoid derived from vitamin A. It is one of the most extensively s…

Vitamin C

Tyrosinase inhibitor to reduce melanin synthesis

Vitamin C is a potent water-soluble antioxidant essential for collagen synthesis. In topical skincar…

Vitamin E

Antioxidant — photoprotection adjunct

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant vitamin and a key component of the skin's natural antioxidant…

Recommended Drugs

Suggested Cosmetics

A-Ret Tretinoin Gel 0.05% Tretinoin for epidermal melanin dispersal AHAGlow Advanced Face Wash Gel Glycolic acid cleanser as adjunct to depigmenting regimen Aqualogica Detan+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with de-tan benefits for melasma Aqualogica Glow+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Aqualogica Illuminate+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Brightening sunscreen with Alpha Arbutin for melasma Aqualogica Radiance+ Dewy Sunscreen with Watermelon & Niacinamide SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with Niacinamide for melasma Asaya 2% Kojic Acid + 1% Alpha Arbutin Face Serum Kojic acid + alpha arbutin for depigmentation Asaya Advanced Spot Pigmentation Face Serum Multi-active depigmentation Asaya 10% Vitamin C Face Serum Vitamin C for brightening Aziderm Cream (Azelaic Acid 20%) Azelaic acid as tyrosinase inhibitor for melasma Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ K-beauty sunscreen with Niacinamide for melasma Bioderma Photoderm Aquafluide SPF 50+ PA++++ Very high protection sunscreen for melasma management Bioderma Photoderm MAX Cream SPF 50+ UVA38 Very high UVA protection critical for melasma Bioderma Photoderm Mineral SPF 50+ PA++++ Mineral sunscreen for melasma management Bioderma Photoderm Spot-Age SPF 50+ PA++++ Anti-spot sunscreen with Vitamin C for melasma Cetaphil Sun SPF 50 Sunscreen Light Gel Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Cipla Acnelak Z SPF 50 Sunscreen Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Cipla Rivela Tint Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 Tinted SPF 50 with visible light protection — gold standard for melasma Conscious Chemist Rapid Glow & Brightening Essence Serum Vitamin C + niacinamide for brightening Conscious Chemist SunProtect+ SPF 50+ PA++++ Sunscreen PA++++ with next-gen filters for melasma Cos-IQ 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide for brightening Cos-IQ 20% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide for depigmentation Cos-IQ 20% Vitamin C Serum with Vitamin E & Ferulic Acid CE Ferulic for depigmentation Cos-IQ 23% Vitamin C Face Serum High-strength vitamin C for depigmentation Cos-IQ 8% Vitamin C Face Serum Vitamin C for mild depigmentation Cyspera Cream (Cysteamine 5%) Non-hydroquinone cysteamine for melasma treatment Deconstruct 5% Niacinamide Serum + 2% Alpha Arbutin Alpha arbutin + niacinamide for depigmentation Deconstruct Gel Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ photostable sunscreen for melasma management Deconstruct 10% Niacinamide Serum with 0.3% Alpha Arbutin Niacinamide + alpha arbutin for depigmentation Deconstruct Vitamin C Serum — 10% Vitamin C + 0.5% Ferulic Acid Vitamin C + ferulic acid for depigmentation The Derma Co AHA BHA 10% Face Peel Glycolic acid exfoliation for pigment reduction The Derma Co 1% Hyaluronic Long Lasting Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ water-resistant sunscreen for melasma management The Derma Co 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management The Derma Co 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Hydrating Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management The Derma Co 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Oil-Free Matte Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with Alpha Arbutin Multi-pathway tyrosinase inhibition for melasma The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide reduces melanosome transfer The Derma Co Pore Minimizing Priming Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with 5% Niacinamide Vitamin C + niacinamide for depigmentation The Derma Co 15% Vitamin C Face Serum with 5% Niacinamide High-potency vitamin C + niacinamide for depigmentation The Derma Co Ultra Light Zinc Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Physical sunscreen for melasma management Dot & Key Blueberry Hydrate Barrier Repair Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Dot & Key CICA Calming Mattifying Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Dot & Key 10% Glycolic Acid Glow Serum Gentle AHA exfoliation for pigment reduction Dot & Key 10% Niacinamide + Strawberry Brightening Face Serum Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer Dot & Key Strawberry Dew Tinted Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Tinted sunscreen with coverage for melasma Dot & Key 10% Vitamin C + E Serum with 5% Niacinamide Vitamin C + alpha arbutin for depigmentation Dot & Key Vitamin C + E Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ SPF 50 protection essential in melasma management Dot & Key Watermelon Cooling Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Dr. Sheth's Ceramide & Vitamin C Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Barrier-supporting SPF 50 sunscreen for melasma Dr. Sheth's Gulab & 6% Glycolic Acid & 5% Niacinamide Brightening Serum Glycolic acid + niacinamide for depigmentation Dr. Sheth's Haldi & Hyaluronic Acid Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Turmeric anti-inflammatory + SPF 50 for melasma Dr. Sheth's Kesar & 2% Kojic Acid Ampoule Serum Kojic acid for depigmentation Ducray Melascreen UV Light Cream SPF 50+ Anti-dark spot sunscreen specifically designed for melasma Ekran Soft SPF 50+ Silicone Sunscreen Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Episoft AC Moisturiser with SPF 30 SPF 30 moisturiser essential during depigmenting treatment Episoft AC SPF 50+ Sunscreen Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Eukroma Plus Cream (Hydroquinone 2% + Tretinoin 0.025% + Mometasone 0.1%) Triple combination cream — most effective topical melasma therapy Eukroma Cream (Hydroquinone 2%) First-line tyrosinase inhibitor for melasma Fixderma FCL C Scape Serum (Vitamin C 15%) Vitamin C for mild depigmenting and antioxidant support Fixderma Nigrifix Cream (for Hyperpigmentation) AHA-based cream for body hyperpigmentation Fixderma Reticuram Retinol Serum Retinol for maintenance depigmenting therapy Fixderma 2% Salicylic Acid Serum with 5% Azelaic Acid & 4% Mandelic Acid Azelaic + mandelic acid for depigmentation Fixderma Shadow Sunscreen SPF 50+ Gel PA+++ Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Fixderma Skarfix-Plus Cream Triple depigmenting cream for melasma management Fixderma Skarfix-TX Serum with 4% Kojic Acid & 3% Tranexamic Acid Kojic acid + tranexamic acid for stubborn pigmentation Foxtale Essentials Dewy Finish Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with niacinamide for melasma Foxtale 10% Glutathione + Vitamin C Face Serum Glutathione + vitamin C for depigmentation Foxtale 5% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer Foxtale 3% Tranexamic Acid Face Serum with Peptides & Niacinamide Tranexamic acid inhibits plasmin and reduces melanin production Foxtale 15% Vitamin C + E + Ferulic Acid Serum Antioxidant depigmenting combo Garnier Bright Complete Vitamin C Booster Serum 30x Affordable vitamin C + niacinamide for mild depigmenting Garnier Super UV Invisible Serum Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with Vitamin C for melasma Garnier Vitamin C+ Face Serum for Brightening Vitamin C for brightening and depigmentation Glyco-A Peel (Glycolic Acid 35%/50%/70%) Superficial chemical peel for epidermal melasma Heliocare 360 Gel Oil-Free SPF 50 Premium sunscreen with Fernblock for melasma Himalaya All Skin Sunprotect+ Ultra-Light Sunscreen Cream SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Himalaya Dark Spot Clearing Turmeric Face Serum Turmeric for brightening and depigmentation Himalaya Brightening Vitamin C Serum Vitamin C for brightening Hyphen 18% Brightening + 20% Collagen Double Shot Serum Vitamin C + alpha arbutin + licorice for depigmentation Hyphen Advanced De-Pigmentation Serum with 2% Kojic Acid Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase for depigmentation Hyphen Brightening Face Serum 5% Niacinamide + 1% Alpha Arbutin Niacinamide + alpha arbutin + kakadu plum for depigmentation IPCA Sunban Ultra SPF 30 PA+++ Gel Daily photoprotection during depigmenting treatment Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Jessner's Solution Peel (Lactic + Salicylic + Resorcinol) Jessner's peel for superficial melasma Joy Revivify Vitamin C Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ Budget PA++++ sunscreen for melasma patients Kaya Gluta Glow Face Serum Glutathione for depigmentation Kojivit Ultra Gel (Kojic Acid 2% + Arbutin 1%) Non-hydroquinone depigmenting gel for melasma maintenance La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ Ultra-long UVA protection — gold standard for melasma La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Fluid SPF 50+ Very high protection sunscreen for melasma management La Shield Expert Urban Protect Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management La Shield Fisico Matte Sunscreen Gel SPF 50+ PA+++ High-SPF mineral sunscreen essential in melasma La Shield Pollution Protect SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen Gel PA+++ Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Lacto Calamine Vitamin C Face Serum Vitamin C for brightening Lakme Perfect Radiance Serum Niacinamide for brightening Lakme Sun Expert 1% Hyaluronic Water-Light Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Lakme Sun Expert 1% Nia C Water-Light Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with brightening actives for melasma Lakmé Sun Expert Ultra Matte SPF 50 PA+++ Gel Sunscreen Affordable daily SPF 50 sunscreen Lakme Sun Expert Tinted Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Tinted sunscreen with coverage for melasma Lakme 9 to 5 Vitamin C+ Serum Vitamin C for brightening L'Oreal Paris Glycolic Bright 8% Face Serum Glycolic acid for chemical resurfacing and depigmentation Loreal UV Defender Serum Protector Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with Mexoryl for melasma Lotus Herbals Safe Sun UV Screen Matte Gel SPF 50 PA+++ Affordable daily SPF 50 for melasma patients Mamaearth Rice Water Dewy Active Serum with 10% Niacinamide Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer Mamaearth Vitamin C Daily Glow Face Serum Vitamin C for brightening and depigmentation Mamaearth Vitamin C Toner Vitamin C and glycolic acid for mild depigmenting action Mamaearth Skin Illuminate Face Serum with Vitamin C & Turmeric Vitamin C + turmeric for depigmentation Melaglow Rich Cream (Tranexamic Acid 3% + Kojic Acid 2%) Tranexamic acid + kojic acid for non-hydroquinone melasma therapy Minimalist 16% Vitamin C Face Serum Tyrosinase inhibition for depigmentation Minimalist 2% Alpha Arbutin Serum + Hyaluronic Acid Alpha arbutin inhibits tyrosinase for depigmentation Minimalist Cream Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management Minimalist Light Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management Minimalist 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide to reduce melanosome transfer Minimalist 0.3% Retinol + Q10 Face Serum OTC retinol for maintenance between treatments Minimalist SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma Minimalist Sunscreen SPF 60 PA++++ SPF 60 PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid Serum Multi-pathway depigmentation with tranexamic acid + HPA Minimalist 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Tyrosinase inhibition for depigmentation Neutrogena Ultrasheer Age Shield Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen essential for melasma management Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 50+ PA+++ Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma patients Olay Total Effects Serum with Vitamin C B5 Niacinamide Vitamin C + niacinamide for brightening Bello Photostable Gold Plus Sunscreen SPF 55 PA+++ Photostable high-SPF sunscreen with visible light protection Pilgrim 15% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid & Vitamin E High-strength vitamin C + ferulic acid for depigmentation Pilgrim 25% AHA + 2% BHA + 5% PHA Peeling Solution Glycolic acid for chemical resurfacing and depigmentation Pilgrim 2% Alpha Arbutin & 3% Vitamin C Brightening Face Serum Alpha arbutin + vitamin C for depigmentation Pilgrim 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer Pilgrim 0.5% Retinol + Vitamin C Serum Retinol for maintenance depigmenting Pilgrim 10% Vitamin C Face Serum Vitamin C + niacinamide for depigmentation Pilgrim Vitamin C Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with brightening actives Plum 5% Niacinamide & Rice Water Beginner Friendly Face Serum Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer Plum 2% Alpha Arbutin & Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum Alpha arbutin inhibits tyrosinase for depigmentation Plum 10% Niacinamide Serum with Rice Water Niacinamide + licorice for depigmentation Plum SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen with 2% Niacinamide Brightening sunscreen for melasma management Plum 15% Vitamin C Serum with Mandarin High-strength vitamin C for depigmentation POND'S Bright Miracle Ultimate Brightening Serum Niacinamide for depigmentation POND'S Serum Boost Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Brightening sunscreen with Niacinamide and Vitamin C POND'S Bright Beauty 12% Vit C+E+A Serum Vitamin C for depigmentation RE'EQUIL Oil Free Aquagel Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management RE'EQUIL Oxybenzone and OMC Free Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ Broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Re'equil Ultra Matte Dry Touch Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma management Regaliz Brilante Max Brightening Serum Brightening actives for depigmentation SalPeel (Salicylic Acid 20%/30%) Superficial peel adjunct for melasma in dark skin Simple Booster Serum 10% Vitamins C + E + F Gentle vitamin C for sensitive melasma-prone skin Skinoren Gel (Azelaic Acid 15%) Azelaic acid for melasma — pregnancy-safe option Suncros Matte Finish Soft Lotion SPF 50+ PA+++ High-SPF mineral sunscreen for melasma Sunprotek Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen for melasma management SunScoop 3% Niacinamide Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ PA++++ sunscreen with Niacinamide for melasma TCA Peel (Trichloroacetic Acid 15–35%) Medium-depth TCA peel for resistant melasma The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Niacinamide reduces melanosome transfer Tranexamic Acid 4mg/mL Mesotherapy Solution Intradermal tranexamic acid for resistant melasma Tri-Luma Cream (Fluocinolone 0.01% + Hydroquinone 4% + Tretinoin 0.05%) Gold-standard triple combination cream for melasma Tvaksh Face Guard Silicone Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA+++ Photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen for melasma UV Doux Gold Silicone Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA+++ Visible light protection for melasma management UV Doux Silicone Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA+++ Multi-filter sunscreen for melasma management VLCC 10% Azelaic Acid Serum Tyrosinase inhibitor safe in pregnancy VLCC De-Tan SPF 50 PA+++ Sunscreen Gel Creme De-tan sunscreen for melasma management WishCare Super Bright C16 10% Vitamin C Serum Vitamin C for brightening and depigmentation WOW Skin Science Vitamin C Serum Vitamin C serum for depigmentation Yellow Peel (Retinol 5% + Lactic + Ascorbic) Retinol peel for melasma-safe for Indian skin

Lifestyle Tips

  • Sunscreen is THE most important intervention — reapply every 2 hours outdoors
  • Use tinted sunscreen with iron oxides for visible light protection
  • Avoid waxing the face during active treatment
  • Be patient — visible improvement takes 8–12 weeks minimum
  • Hormonal review if linked to oral contraceptives

When to Refer

  • Refractory melasma not responding to 6 months of topical therapy
  • Consideration of procedural interventions (peels, laser)
  • Diagnostic uncertainty (rule out post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, lichen planus pigmentosus)